RIGGING AND TUNING GUIDE

Special Note: Using too long or too stiff a mast will result in a stiff unresponsive feel because of the over-tensioning required. Using too short or too soft of a mast will also result in a flatter shape with a spongy feel.

Insert the mast so it travels in front on the cambers, not on top of them. Push the mast as far as you can from the bottom of the sail. Do not force mast from the boom opening as this unnecessarily wrinkles the sail. Keep all battens rotated to the underside of the mast. You should be able to insert the mast approximately 65% of the way before it stops. Insert your mast extension. Thread the rope on your mast extension (an extra long down haul rope helps) through the tack grommet (see photo A below). Stand on mast extension and pull on the rope. You now have a 2/1 purchase to force the mast up to the top of the sleeve. The 2 ply sleeve has been designed to be rigged in this manner.

If your mast is shorter than the sail's luff length, estimate the amount of mast base extension needed by subtracting the mast length from the luff length. Your downhaul pulley system should have 6:1 purchase and enough line to make lacing easy. If you are not using a pulley hook, lace the down haul line through the grommet as illustrated below. It is imperative that you learn the correct lacing as it allows for easy rigging and tuning and also extends the rope's life. You may choose to down haul completely or partially at this time. It may be easier to attach the boom (depending on boom brand) before down hauling 100% at this time.

1. Lace down-haul rope up through underside of tack grommet.

2. Bring the rope down to furthest from start position downhaul pulley.

Photos B:

3.Thread rope through the frontside of this pulley.

4. Lace rope from pulley to the left top side of your sails' tack grommet.

Photo C:

5. Thread rope down through grommet (no crossed lines).

6. Bring rope down to the pulley closest to rope's start position.

Photos D:

7.Thread rope through the backside of this pulley. (no crossed lines)

8. Rope should naturally flow to center of the two existing lines

Photo E:

9. Thread rope through bottom-side of grommet

10. Rope must lace between the two existing lines in the tack grommet.

Photos F:

11. Thread rope down through cleat and lock. Done correctly there are no crossing of lines.

Adjust your boom to the length specified for the sail. The first time you rig your new sail attach the boom to the mast at the middle of the boom opening and re-adjust it after the sail is fully rigged for your custom requirements. Be careful not to attach it too high in the boom opening - you must account for the sail to be down-hauled further. Lace the outhaul through the clew grommet, and pull the outhaul completely so the sail is flat, using the recommended boom length. If you are using an adjustable out haul system, install now.

4. TUNE THE DOWN HAUL

The downhaul controls the sail's shape and performance. Discover its effect by pulling and slowly releasing the line. Use a down hauling tool so the line is easier to over tension. Watch the change in depth and tension of the leading edge (front ½ of the sail), and the flattening and loosening of the head area (upper leach) as more downhaul is applied. Notice the rotation of the batten tips near the mast. Also notice the change in the angles, or twist, of the upper battens. Twist is cut into the sail, but is ultimately controlled by the downhaul tension. More downhaul induces more twist; less downhaul allows less twist. Twist improves sail efficiency by lowering the center of effort and making the sail easier to control. The optimum downhaul setting gives a tight luff, while the leech between the top three battens should become loose (see photos on the next page for the correct leech looseness).

On sails with a vario-top, once you are familiar with the correct downhaul settings, re-check the head cap length vs. the mast extension height. If necessary re-adjust these so that the tack grommet sits very close to the mast base cleat, and the amount of mast extending out of the top of the mast sleeve is minimized by lowering the mast base.

The battens are tensioned using an Allen-key tool found affixed to the opening end of the sail bag. Insert the Allen-key into the adjustment screw inside the batten-tensioning shaft at the leech end of each batten. Turn the Allen-Key to the right (clockwise) to tighten. Tension the batten only until the wrinkles across the batten pockets disappear. Look for a continuous smooth shape to the sailcloth next to the batten pocket (see photo). You should see a smooth reflection, with no vertical wrinkles in the sailcloth along the entire length of the battens. NOTE: DO NOT OVERTENSION THE BATTENS AS POOR ROTATION, EXCESS FOIL DEPTH AND DAMAGE TO THE SAIL CAN RESULT. The batten tension may need to be re-tightened after one or two uses as the sail sets its final shape, but once the batten tension is set, it is not necessary to release the batten tension ever.

Release any outhaul tension and allow the sail to relax naturally. Now pull the outhaul a minimum of 5cm (2 inches) from this neutral position. Cleat off the outhaul line. Check the foil depth by pushing on the sail area under your harness-lines. Under pressure, the sail will increase in depth as the battens pull back from the mast. When luffing or without pressure the sail will flatten. Less outhaul makes the sail fuller and more powerful for reaching, but it will also be harder to control when over-powered or sailing upwind. For upwind sailing or overpowered conditions, more outhaul tension will improve performance by making the sail flatter and tighter. Whenever you increase or release downhaul, realize that the outhaul tension is also changed and may need to be adjusted as well. The Formula D is designed to be tuned, so spend some time learning the effects of your adjustments.

• Cambers should rotate smoothly in a minimum of wind. If they are not then it is highly likely that you are rigging the sail too full. Increase both down haul and out haul.
• The other possibility is your mast diameter is too large. Use the recommended mast.

When downhauling is difficult to pull.

• Make sure your downhaul lines are not crossed through the grommet. Consult the threading instructions above. A pulley hook is also helpful in aiding downhaul ease.
• Make sure that your downhaul rope is not too thick or frayed. Using an easy-rig downhaul crank is also highly recommended.

• Downhaul controls the rig tension and the twist profile. More downhaul tightens the sail and induces more twist, which is good for overpowering conditions; less downhaul softens the sail and allows less twist, which is good in light wind and makes pumping more efficient. Recognize downhaul tension by noticing the looseness of the leech between the top three battens. Remember that when you increase down haul, you will usually have to increase out haul as well. Never rig the sail with excessive downhaul and little outhaul. This will result in rough power delivery and a "heavy" feel.
• Outhaul controls the depth of the foil. Use less outhaul in lighter winds to allow the sail to be fuller. In stronger winds more outhaul will flatten the sail, reducing power, for more control. For upwind sailing, or overpowered conditions, more outhaul tension will improve performance by making the sail tighter and more stable. This setting also suits the sailor who enjoys transition tricks and maneuvers, allowing the sail to de-power and re-power faster.

CONDITIONS

• In strong wind the Formula D should be rigged for maximum control and stability. At this setting you should notice the following characteristics: leach looseness as shown at maximum downhaul setting, outhaul should be pulled about 6cm from neutral.
• In a mid range wind setting the Formula D is rigged for balanced power and control. At this setting you should notice the following characteristics: leach looseness as shown on the medium downhaul setting, outhaul should be pulled 3 to 5 cm from neutral.
• In a light wind setting the Formula D is rigged for maximum power but difficult to control when overpowered. At this setting you should notice the following characteristics: leach looseness as shown at minimum downhaul tension, outhaul should be pulled 2 to 3 cm from neutral position.

• When feasible let your sail dry before de-rigging
• Shake the sand off before rolling up your sail at the beach, as this will help keep the monofilm clear. Most scratches to the monofilm are caused by sand and grit abrading the sail while it is rolled up.
• Do not feel the need to fresh water rinse your sail. Most urban water has mineral deposits that dry as white spots on the sail and are difficult to remove without abrasion. Salt water will leave a slight film, but never adhere to the monofilm. Occasionally wash your rigged sail with warm water and dish soap and a cotton towel. Dry with soft cotton towel for best results.
• Avoid rigging on hard or abrasive surfaces.
• If left rigged for extended periods of time, keep full tension on sail settings. Monofilm and x-ply prefer to remain smooth and unwrinkled.
• Always store your rigged sail out of direct sunlight. UV light degrades monofilm more than any other factor.
• Repair tears promptly with a qualified sail repairperson. Make temporary repairs to the monofilm with clear Mylar packing tape or a sticker applied to both sides of the damages area.
• Do not use solvents for cleaning near seams, as this will dissolve the seam tape adhesive. Use water and mild soap. To remove tar spots or sticker adhesive residue use a citrus-based cleaner.
• When storing your rolled sail vertically, be sure sail stands on the sleeve end of sail.